Sailing the ICW Mashoes, North Carolina
We began our second day in the Great Dismal Swamp by waking up and deciding to take a leisurely morning stroll through the state park before returning to the canal. To enter the park, it's necessary to check in with the booth attendant, who ensures that no one is left behind after closing hours. Since access to the park is via a bridge that is lifted after hours, you definitely wouldn’t want to find yourself swimming back to shore, ha! After entering the park we hopped on the Supplejack Trail. The trails here are primarily flat, featuring informative signs that share the rich history of the swamp, including remnants of moonshine stills from the Prohibition area. A few discoveries we made along the trails included bear scat, although we saw no actual bears, a downy woodpecker and supplejack vine. After completing our hike, we returned to our boat and got ready to continue our journey through the swamp.
As we traveled south, we passed the US 17 Highway Bridge and made our way to our next stop, the South Mills Bridge. Unfortunately, this bridge wasn't scheduled to open for a while. When we contacted the operator, she informed us that we could tie off to the cleats attached to the wall on our starboard side. I felt a bit anxious as we approached the bridge, with cars passing by us at eye level. Fortunately, I had been practicing my line-throwing skills, and when I tossed the first line over the cleat, I made the catch on my first attempt. Thanks to Chris's excellent steering, we were able to approach the wall smoothly and enjoy some time after securing our lines. As we neared the South Mills lock, I felt a surge of confidence compared to my first lock experience. The lockmaster assisting us radiated girl power and engaged in friendly conversation while I passed her our bow line. This time, the water level dropped, allowing us to exit the swamp. After consulting our maps, we looked for a suitable spot to anchor for the night where we could take our dog, Couillon, for a potty break. We discovered Goat Island North on the map, which intrigued us as a place we wanted to explore. This location is managed by the Scouts of America and featured a shack along with sleeping platforms. It appeared that winter had taken its toll on this anchorage. While it may not have been the most pet friendly place to say it was certainly manageable for a swamp dog from Louisiana.
The next morning dawned bright and sunny, allowing us to unfurl the jib and enjoy a wonderful day of sailing. The warmth of the sun was delightful, but we were aware that another cold front was approaching, bringing evening temperatures that would plunge below freezing. This posed a challenging situation for both our boat and ourselves. Concerned about the potential for our boat's components to freeze and break, Chris reached out to his friend Steven Williams, who had recently relocated to North Carolina with his family. They owned a waterfront home and graciously offered to host us on their dock so we could order and install a heater. Unfortunately, we couldn't sail all the way to them before sunset, which left us near Mashoes, North Carolina—often regarded as the last village on the mainland accessible only by boat. This sparked some playful jokes between Chris and me about my shoes throughout the evening. Just before dusk, we took our dog Couillon ashore to relieve himself and stretch his legs, as well as ours. Upon reaching the shore, we were welcomed by stunning driftwood and a beautiful palette of pinks, blues, and lavenders reflecting on the water as dusk set in. Back on the boat, we indulged in snacks and made an effort to stay awake past midnight to welcome the new year with a kiss. We chatted with family back home and eventually fell asleep after a fulfilling day of sailing.
The following morning, we were welcomed by a blanket of fog that soon lifted to reveal a sunrise bathed in orange hues. As we made our way to the shore, we discovered a variety of beautiful stones, some of which were translucent enough to see through when illuminated by the sunlight. It's always a delight to uncover such little treasures on every island we explore. After our time on land, we prepared our boat to head over to the Williams family home.
