Sailing the ICW The Great Dismal Swamp
I woke up around sunrise, which is a common occurrence for me on the boat. The sky was painted in shades of pink and orange, beautifully reflecting on the water below. We were excited to kick off the day, even though it would involve motoring rather than sailing. Off we went toward Gilmerton Bridge, giving a shout-out on the radio that we were ready to pass. The Gilmerton Bridge operates as a vertical lift bridge. It is important to note that directly behind Gilmerton Bridge is the #7 Railroad Bridge, which must be open for the Gilmerton Bridge to raise. We patiently waited for about twenty minutes, watching trains go by before we were granted passage
After cruising under the bridge and making a sharp right at Deep Creek, we rolled up to the gateway of the Great Dismal Swamp and our very first lock! The Dismal Swamp Canal links Chesapeake Bay near Portsmouth and Norfolk, Virginia, to Elizabeth City in North Carolina, running alongside the Great Dismal Swamp National Wildlife Refuge. The canal journey begins at Deep Creek, leading to two significant locks: Deep Creek Lock and South Mills Lock. These locks are essential for managing the canal's water levels and ensuring safe passage for all boats. Boaters are responsible for handling their own lines during the locking process and must remain alert to their vessel's position to prevent drifting. Lock schedules generally allow for four openings each day, but these may change depending on water levels. Close coordination with lockmasters is crucial, particularly for vessels with deeper drafts that could face restrictions in certain conditions. Furthermore, the nearby Deep Creek Bridge aligns its openings with the lock schedule, adding an extra layer of planning for boaters.
I felt a little anxious about my lack of experience with locks, but Lockmaster Neil quickly put me at ease, making the entire experience enjoyable. He was friendly and offered all the guidance we needed to navigate through the swamp. Once we entered, I noticed a forest to our starboard side and was surprised to see a road to port. Cars and bicycles traveled along this road, which eventually led into the forest and connected to a walking trail. Spectators waved as our sailboat glided through the canal. While Chris steered the boat, I joined our dog, Couillon, at the bow to capture photos and take in the swamp's beauty. It was the first warm day since we left, and I was thrilled to ditch my jacket! A few hours in we rang our bell and crossed over the state line into North Carolina.
n front of us we often saw heron hiding in the brush and along the swamp edge. As our boat approached, they'd take flight, landing just a few feet ahead of us, amusingly repeating this behavior whenever we got close. We also encountered a few mallard ducks and turtles. Navigating through the swamp posed its own challenges, particularly in avoiding floating debris and fallen trees. After a long day of motoring, I took over steering for a while so Chris could relax and enjoy the scenery. Despite its gloomy reputation, the swamp was surprisingly pleasant. As the sun began to set, we headed towards the Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center, where we could dock for the night. This welcome center is unique in the United States, as it's accessible by both car and boat. Upon arrival we were the only vessel in sight making it fairly easy to approach the dock and secure our boat. After getting settled we took advantage of the daylight we had left to sharpen our skills throwing dock lines around nearby pilings. Oh, and remember our davit dilemma? A heartfelt shout-out to Aunt Tracy and Kayleigh, who came to our rescue. They visited us that evening, bringing Chris the welding gear needed to mend our broken davit system, along with a bounty of provisions to replenish our supplies. It was a fun night filled with story swapping, laughs and appreciated time spent with family—a perfect way to conclude a long day and prepare for our second day in the swamp
